Vive la différence!

It is always intriguing to observe which concepts and words are difficult to translate from English into a foreign language. As I currently find myself in the Republic of Macedonia, the wrinkled forehead, grimaces and rumblings of linguistic indigestion from deep within prove that it is not always easy to express everything in Macedonian. Sometimes where we have an adjective in English, Macedonian will use a preposition with the gerund/noun e.g. there is no adjective for' chewy', so it is expressed 'for chewing'. 'Creamy' is inadequately translated 'with cream'. Sometimes where we use Latin/Greek derivatives, they just spell out the object with words: e.g for 'funambulist', they say 'dancer on a rope'. However, more often than not, they too will borrow the word e.g 'cacophony' is 'kakofonija', 'ventriloquist' is 'ventrilokist' et al. One is never sure, though, if the Latin derivative is commonly known. Obviously where a certain concept/object does not exist within a culture, there is no specific word for it. 'Gravy' becomes 'sauce' in Macedonian, 'pub' is 'pab', 'leprechaun' is 'spirit with the face of a gaffer from Irish folklore'. Nuts do exist in Macedonia, but they have to be referred to specifically. You cannot say the chocolate contains nuts. It contains hazelnuts, almonds, walnuts etc.

These are just a few examples of linguistic challenges which have presented themselves to me in the past while in Macedonia. However, that is not the main subject of this blog. Social interaction in Macedonia and some of the differences between the two cultures may be of greater interest.

What are you doing?
At the beginning, I was often confused when people would phone me up and ask what I was doing. I would proceed to tell everyone I was peeling carrots, polishing my shoes, changing the light bulbs, memorizing Macedonian verbs... It took me some time to realize that this was the greeting, not printed in the text book which I had been using. I had simply concluded that everyone was checking up on my activities until the penny, or the denar, finally dropped. In some cases though, people will tell you generally what they are doing or where they are, but a detailed answer is not expected, just as we greet people with 'how are you?' but do not expect a comprehensive health report. In Bitola, words often get shortened, thus 'sto pravis' (shto pravish) becomes 'so prajs' (sho preish), which was also bewildering for a day or two.

When can I drop by?
I read an article yesterday about how Germans interpret some of our British interaction as insincere, but we are only abiding by our social and cultural rules. Macedonians also have their own social etiquette and mores which can be confusing for foreigners. I am often blanketed in a fog of insecurity and discomfort through not knowing what is expected of me. The following scenario presents itself not infrequently: if you want to visit someone and ask them when it suits, they will invariably say, 'we're at home, come when you want'. I always want to hear a particular time so I know I am not imposing or arriving at their lunchtime (which can be any time between 1pm and 3pm). Then I often wonder if I am being rude when people want to visit me and I give them a precise time to arrive. I get a feeling that if you hint that you do not have time for people, they take it personally, so it is necessary to fit everybody in (somebody correct me if I'm wrong). Macedonians always go out of their way to make you feel comfortable and accepted, which is something I value greatly.

Do you want coffee?
I was somewhat tickled when I learned about the three types of 'do you want coffee?'. There's the first coffee as a sign of welcome when visiting people. The second one is for continued conversation, but the third time you are asked, it means it is time to leave. That is so neat. I am not sure what we do in Britain to get guests to leave other than yawn desperately and set the milk bottles outside (one my uncle does).

The cute diminutive
One of the beautiful aspects of Macedonian which has been lost in English is the use of the diminutive. No one goes by their actual name - my name does not transliterate well into Macedonian because a female name always ends in a pronounced vowel (mostly 'a'). Thus my friends call me 'Olivce' (Oliv-chey), Olic (Oleetch), Olivka (Oleev-ka) or Oli. The 'chey' suffix at the end of names, or other diminutive suffixes depending on the last letters of the name, makes them very endearing. The same can be done with many other words which can be a way of showing empathy and endearment. Personally, it makes me feel all warm inside when I read or hear the diminutive. I have no idea if it has the same effect on others.

Shut up and listen!
Perhaps it is due to my impatient nature or maybe due to our shorter turn-taking in English as linguists call it, but I still make the faux pas of interrupting Macedonian speakers when I should be listening. The way we interact in English is much different. Interruptions are not considered rude, yet I have found that when I interrupt in Macedonian, the speaker will sometimes stop speaking and not continue! Ooops. Then I have to apologise for interrupting and tell them to go on. In British English, it is normal for the listener to contribute little remarks while expecting the speaker to continue. This is how we display our interest in the topic. I am referring to the natural course of conversation, not an interview or debate where people are rudely interrupted by those who disagree with the speaker. This is something I still must work at; a firm biting of the tongue until it is my turn to speak!

Don't touch me, I'm British!
A further aspect of social interaction is physical touch which we reserved Brits have to get used to in southern countries. It is quite common for the interlocutor beside you to place his/her hand on your knee, leg, arm or shoulder several times during a coffee rendez-vous. In fact, I've been frisked several times during some conversations - I just continued drinking my coffee while the British me inside decided whether to squirm or laugh. This is where Macedonians see our 'coldness' and lack of temperament. Not long ago when I was back home in N.Ireland, I greeted someone who is a casual acquaintance with a huge hug. Suddenly I remembered this was inappropriate on home soil! I just need to be aware of my whereabouts at all times.

The wonderful thing is that there is no right or wrong culture. People and their customs are perpetually fascinating. It is only by observing other cultures through panoptic glasses that we understand our own. Vive la différence!